Shaving … A daily ritual that can be of mind numbing repetitiveness.   We push a button on an aerosol can and outcomes a fluffy cloud of god knows what chemical composition.  We carelessly slather our faces trying to cover all the targeted, bewhiskered areas.  We grab our multi bladed shaving accessories (what are we up to 5, 6 blades?) and begin to hack away as quickly as safety allows.  Once most of the foam is removed, with or without all the available whiskers, we splash on a bit of water, dry and head for the door.  Mission accomplished.  Only to be repeated the following day and again and again all the days of our lives.

Let’s do a little math.  Say a typical shave takes 5 minutes from beginning to end.  You shaved 7 days a week.  You begin regular shaving when you’re what? 16 years old? You live to be, say, 80. Thirty five minutes a week times 3,328 weeks equals 116,480 minutes or 1,940 hours or 80 days.

We will spend nearly three months of our lives shaving.  Surely an investment of that kind of time and effort should be undertaken with more care and have a bit more payout on the back end. No????

That’s what the Symphony of Shaving Accessories is about… The Zen of Shaving… Shaving as a Metaphysical Act…. The Quest for the “Perfect Shave”.

How would one define the “Perfect Shave”?  Hard to say.  I suppose I’d have to paraphrase the famous dictum from Justice Potter Stewart regarding pornography.  In this case … “It’s hard to define but I’ll know it when I feel it”.  Having said that, I believe we can we create a short list of critical features to help us zero in a bit.

• First and foremost, the end result. The shave should end with a smooth, clean face free of any trace of stubble.
  
• In addition, the “Perfect Shave” should be comfortable, nick and pain free.  No razor burns or excessive tugging and pulling.
  
• I believe it should have a comforting quality to it, the same way a warm blanket is comforting on a cold day.
  
• The shaving accessories employed should be “exactly right” for the task: the razor sharp, easy to handle and a lather that softens and lubricates.
• As your first assertive act of the day, the “perfect shave” should leave you invigorated, ready to face all oncoming challenges.

A highly subjective list  I admit, but all necessary to achieve that transcendent experience.  If anyone has any additional thoughts on this subject let’s hear from you.

So that’s the task we have before us.  We’ll explore wet, classic wet (soap, mug and brush) and dry shaving in all its’ manifestations.  Note:  I’ll have to fess up to a certain biases here.  I’ve been a classic wet shaver for 20 plus years.  So don’t be surprised if we focus a good deal of attention in that direction.  We’ll examine at all manner of shaving accessories, accouterments and techniques.  Conduct an exploration of the cultural issues surrounding shaving both now and in the past. Truly, a celebration of all things shaving.

So won’t you come along and join me as we begin….. The Quest for the Perfect Shave.

Technorati Tags: dry shaving, perfect shave, shaving, Wet Shaving

What’s the key to a great shave?  Can anyone guess?  Simply put, it all starts with a great lather.  Why? Because the basic function of the lather is to moisten the whiskers and lubricate the face for a nice, smooth razor pull that gets the entire beard quickly and effectively. 

What medium works best?

Opinions differ between the chief shaving accessories contenders: cream, foam, gel or soap.  My personal opinion?  It’s creams and soaps hands down.  With foams and gels you really can’t affect the outcome.  You get simply whatever comes out of the can or tube.   Since creams and soaps need to be whipped into lather, they can be manipulated to deliver the maximum benefit.  Performed correctly a well whipped soap or cream lather can dramatically impact you shave’s comfort and results.

Preparation

The first phase is the warm up.  This is a key step toward enhancing the basic comfort of your shave.  Two basic items need to be warmed in preparation for a shave: the brush and the mug.  Insuring that both are warm, will ultimately result in a warm comfortable lather applied to your face….one of the truly pleasurable aspects of a classic wet shave.   If you use a cream heat the bowl and brush in hot water for 30 seconds, the hotter the better. If you are a soap user and employ the same mug for soap  storage and lather generating, add hot water to the mug  and soak the brush and soap, again for about 30 seconds or so, remember, the hotter the better. Some suggest that the soap be kept in a container other than the one in which it’s lathered but I’m not quite the purest.  Shaving cream users should add a small dab of cream (about the size of a pea) to the warm mug.  

Lathering

After the preparation soak, empty the bowl and shake off the excess water from the brush.  Be sure to give it a good shake.  Too much water in either the bowl or brush will give you a runny lather.  You can always add more water if necessary.  Whip the soap or cream by turning the brush in a rapid circular motion, alternating clockwise and counter clockwise.  Continue this for about 30 seconds or so until the bristle tip of your brush has a ¼” layer of foam, covering it completely, and the lather is stiff enough to come to a nice peak.   If you’re having difficulty getting enough lather, try adding a tiny bit more water to the mug.  A tiny splash will do.

Application

The final step is to apply the lather to the face.  The best results are achieved by rubbing the foam onto the face is a circular motion, again alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise motion.  Work it in.  If you’ve got a warm lather the experience will be worth spending a little time at it. Massaging the lather into the face enhances the beard moisturizing, acts a mild defoliant and opens pours and cleans the skin. Don’t apply the lather in a paint brush fashion you won’t get the in-depth coverage you need for a great shave.  Once that’s accomplished it’s on to the shave.

A good shave starts with a good lather.   I’ve found he best lather comes from a shaving soap or cream.  It takes a bit more time than pressing an aerosol can button but as shaving accessories go the results can’t compare. 

Technorati Tags: brush lather, How to Shave, mug, shaving, Shaving Accessories, Shaving Cream, shaving soap, Wet Shaving

Opti ons, Options, Options.  Sometimes it seems as though  we have too many choices to make, too ma ny decisions on too many issues.  Being a wet shaver offers no respite.  Pre and post shave oils and lotion, type of razor, brand of blades and brush shaving accessories that all require some thought and scrutiny.  Probably one of the most important however is the source of the lather we apply to our face. Although there are a wide variety of brands there are only four basic mediums: Foams, Creams, Gels and Soaps.  Which to Choose? What are their differences? Advantages? Disadvantages?

We’ll not pass judgment on which is the best medium since it’s largely a personal preference issue.  We’ll simply provide some basic information and you can make up your own mind regarding which you prefer.  “One man’s preference, another man’s poison.”

Foams

For this exercise foams are defined as being can contained and aerosol activated. What 2/3 of the shaving population use every day.  Relatively new, they were first introduced in 1949.  Because of their primary advantage, convenience, they meshed well with emerging cultural trends of the 50’s and 60’s.  While canned foam certainly gets you out of the bathroom quickly, there are a couple of downside issues to consider.  Many brands contain significant levels of alcohol.   Alcohol tends to dry skin when is should be hydrated and conditioned. Additionally, the canned foam product contains a good deal of air which negatively  affects its’ ability to adequately suspend your facial hairs upright during the shave.  This ultimately decreases its’ softness and thoroughness and also increases the likelihood that the razor will drag across your skin and ‘burn’ it.

Gels

Gels come in a tube or aerosol can.  They are applied directly to the face and typically remain clear and don’t lather-up upon application.  Herein lays their principal advantage.  They can be useful for those who need to skillfully maneuver around the shave of thier goatee or mustache.  You’ll alwyas be abot to see the hair beneath and avoind trimming too far into your beard.  In addition, for those with easily irritated skin or “problem areas” (due to break-outs, etc.), the gel makes it easier to avoid cutting in affected areas.  Disadvantagre.  Many find them gunky, over reliant on chemicals and harsh on the skin.

Creams

Creams are cross between soaps and gels, and are available in a tube or jar. You can use your fingers to apply it directly to your face and lather up or in conjunction with a brush and/or mug.  They often contain glycerin which helps create a smooth and creamy lather that holds plenty of water and leaves the skin smooth and soft.  Since they need to be lathered, creams lack the convenience of Gels and Foams.

Soaps

Traditional soaps come in a cake form.  They produce a thick, whipped, creamy foam when lathered with a decent shaving brush.   They often contain oils, herbs and plant extracts that not only leave a pleasant fragrance but help hydrate and condition the skin, resulting in a smoother shave.  They may also help with some skin conditions.  Soaps, like creams, require a bit of time to work up lather, so they too rank a bit lower on convenience scale.

So there you have it.  If your shaving accessories preference is convenience the first two are for you.  If you’re looking for a bit more from you daily shave then creams and soaps are it.  Regardless which you chose be sure to look at the ingredient and avoid products that contain harsh chemicals or additives.

Technorati Tags: shaving, shaving accessoires, Shaving Cream, shaving foams, shaving gels, Shaving Mug, shaving soap, Wet Shaving

While in use as early as ancient Egypt, the true reign of the shaving brush began with the invention of the straight razor in the early 19^th. .  That made it no longer necessary to see a barber to get a shave.   It could be done at home and every man had a shaving brush and cup on his nightstand.  The wealthy were happy to spend, for the time, extravagant amounts of money on brushes with gold, silver or crystal handles and the most exotic bristles.   The shaving brush held sway until the mid-20^th century when the advent of the aerosol foam can rendered it obsolete.   Although a shade of its former greatness, it hasn’t totally disappeared.  It continues in use today with a small but growing cadre of fans who continue to use the shaving brush and fervently sing its’ praises.

While the handles are the status symbol the business end, the bristles, is where the action is.  From the very beginning, because of its’ durability, water retention properties and soft, pliable texture, badger hair was the preferred medium. While boar’s hair and, more recently, synthetics have attempted to supplant it, badger hair still remains on the top of the heap. But is all badger hair the same?  No not even close.  Typically badger hair is broken down into three grades.  Although some manufactures cut the distinctions even finer.  Those three grades are pure, best and silvertip.

• Pure grade  badger hair comes from the underbelly, an area that covers about 60% of the badger’s body and is therefore the most abundant and least expensive.  The hair follicle is a bit thicker than best and silvertip and as a result is a bit coarser than their brethren.  Its color varies between a light tan to dark gray.  Unlike the other two, pure grade bristles are mechanically trimmed during the manufacturing process and that results in a stiffer, rough tip.
• Best grade badger hair is next on the totem pole.  The hair in this category tends to be a bit finer and more flexible than the pure grade.  Best grade brushes tend to be denser and as a consequence produce more lather.  They typically don’t require trimming so they are more comfortable to use than the pure.
• Silvertip badger hair is the top of the line both in quality and price.  It’s called silvertip because the tips of the bristles are white in color which extends well down the shaft.  The bristle has a somewhat flared shape that increases its water retention and therefore its ability to create thick, creamy lather.

No matter what the quality level.  Shaving with a badger hair shaving brush is a “hair rising” experience since it softens and lifts the whiskers, resulting in an extremely close and comfortable shave.  So hats off to furry our four legged friends.  For their fur makes our comfort possible.

Technorati Tags: badger hair, best badger hair, pure badger hair, shaving, slivertip, Wet Shaving